Russia by Simon Richmond

Author:Simon Richmond
Language: eng
Format: mobi, epub
ISBN: 0383798000
Publisher: Lonely Planet Publications
Published: 2009-10-14T10:00:00+00:00

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VOLOGDA BUS SERVICES

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From the train station (720 643; pl Babushkina 8) around seven daily services run to Moscow (8½ to 9½ hours) of which train 59 at 9.10pm (platskart/kupe R815/2024) is the best-timed overnighter. Day-train 375 departing at 6.28am is much cheaper (obshchii/platskart R340/518) and offers the best value of numerous options for reaching Yaroslavl (obshchii/platskart R230/390, 4½ hours).

In summer up to five trains run overnight to St Petersburg (platskart/kupe from R615/1545, 12 to 13 hours).

For Arkhangelsk, train 16 (platskart/kupe R663/1630) leaves at 6.30pm, arriving at 6.24am. Train 374 to Murmansk (platskart/kupe R1155/3015, 37 hours) leaves at 2.40pm on even-numbered days (daily in summer). Kotlas train 376 (platskart/kupe R579/1435, 12½ hours) leaves at 10.05pm and arrives at Yadrikha (for Veliky Ustyug) at 9.24am.

Getting Around

From the train station trolleybuses 1 and 4 run up ul Mira; number 4 continues north while number 1 turns left on Oktyabrskaya, doubling back down Leningradskaya near the Spasskaya Hotel. Minibus 84 runs frequently to the airport from outside the bus station, passing very close to the monastery. Bus 6 takes Zosimovskaya then heads west along Gertsena.

CHEREPOVETS

8202 / pop 312,000 / Moscow

This big, lumbering steel city can be a useful transport hub, especially if you’re heading to or from Belozersk (right). If stuck for an hour or two between connections, try jumping on eastbound bus 202 from the bus/train station square to its Sovetsky pr city-centre terminus. Here the Resurrection Cathedral has golden rose-hip–shaped bulb domes and an interior with some excellent murals and a dazzling iconostasis. Sovetsky pr, the main commercial street, is given character by a decent sprinkling of semiclassical, log and timber buildings as far north as the pr Pobedy junction, where the post office (Sovetsky pr 98; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri) has internet access (per hour R48). On the other end of town, at the bottom of the slope behind the Resurrection Cathedral, the wooden river station has no regular ferries but is a picturesque construction redolent of olde-worlde Louisiana.

The most central accommodation is tiny Hotel Voskresenskaya (511 108; www.angliter.ru/voskr.htm; Sovetsky pr; s/d from R2000/2400) with several decent cafés nearby. Bulkin (Sovetsky pr 64b; coffee R50-80, pastries from R15; 24hr) brews excellent Americanos.

Flights to Moscow, St Petersburg and Helsinki via Petrozavodsk are operated by Severstal Airlines (646 401; http://airport.cpv.ru/avia.shtml) from the airport (Vologda Hwy km115/416).

From the bus station (555 133; www.cherinfo.ru/?pid=617, in Russian) six buses run daily to Belozersk. Useful overnight trains include number 687 to St Petersburg (7½ hours, 9.57pm), number 126 to Moscow (11½ hours, 10pm) and number 388 to Yadrikha (13½ hours, 7.12pm) for Veliky Ustyug (bypassing Vologda).

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