The Mighty Gastropolis: Portland by Karen Brooks

Author:Karen Brooks
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Chronicle Books LLC
Published: 2012-11-01T16:00:00+00:00

KOPITIAM TOAST WITH KAYA (COCONUT JAM)

One of the highlights of Ping is thick burnished toast and custardy coconut jam scented with thin, green, mile-long pandanus leaves, the vanilla of Southeast Asia. Andy Ricker picked up the habit at Malaysian Chinese coffee shops or kopitiams, where the bread is charcoal-fired and dispatched for breakfast with a side of animated conversation and local gossip. At Ping, people eat it between spicy dishes, like a celestial palate cleanser. Look for pandanus leaf, UHT (ultra-high-temperature) coconut cream, and Japanese pan bread at Asian markets.

1 pandanus leaf

1 cup/240 ml UHT coconut cream

3 eggs

2 egg yolks

¾ cup/150 g extra-fine sugar

¼ tsp kosher salt

1 small loaf thickly sliced Japanese pan bread or Texas toast

1. In a small saucepan, bring the pandanus leaf and coconut cream to a low boil over medium heat. Immediately reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool to lukewarm. Remove the leaf and discard.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs, egg yolks, sugar, and salt. Slowly drizzle in the coconut cream, whisking constantly to combine. Strain the mixture into the top of a double boiler (or into a stainless-steel bowl set over a pan of simmering water) and cook over medium-low heat, stirring often, until thick, glossy, and smooth, about 30 minutes.

3. Lightly toast eight slices of the bread and cut each one in half on the diagonal. Spread 1 tbsp or so of the jam over each triangle and serve immediately. Store leftover jam in a covered glass jar in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.

SERVES 8

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